Fashion Week Wrap Up

Analyzing this season’s collections now that autumn is upon us while summer does not seem to want to end is somewhat perplexing. This must be the reason why fashion weeks around the world have not fully covered the bits and pieces that highlight a woman’s essential essence.

From Scognamiglio’s light black to Valentino’s beloved 50’s, the silver-line in their collections are those few centimeters of skin boldly covered by a material that reveals effectively everything;

This season’s woman is one who knows her first glass is half-empty, but is conscious that her second will be half-full. The voluminous yet revealing soft lines run from the shoulders gently down the arms, from the hips down to the ankles, without tripping into a spring gypsy cliché but rather floating on long, seemingly everlasting tails.

Just like Balenciaga protects the female sensuality with a satin armor, Gucci attacks the night with bright and tough jackets.

Long or short is no longer a dilemma. Hussein Chalayan makes the two extremes meet with his asymmetries, like Acne and Ferre’s delicate indecisions or Lanvin’s drastic cuts. Exaggerated volumes and unique materials are used for skirts like those elegantly developed by Maison Martin Margiela, even if we are well away from puritanical ideas.

Chiseled abs and forthcoming breasts are held up by mere centimeters of sown or printed cloth, or by leather so soft it can rival Donatella’s platinum mane.

Antonio Marras’ lingerie reflects his identity and affection for Balenciaga, but in a much more contemporary and elaborate version. The same goes for D&G, and their ability to make shorts a delectable piece, especially for their extremely colorful and egocentric prints.

But while Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana decided to limit their collection to a few closely selected floral prints, Paul Smith and Ackermann went a little further in structuring new designs, both abstract and not, on trousers with a stern male cut. Bravo to Smith and Ackermann for their daring shapes, without compromising the power of woman’s stride.

____________
by Roberta Ungaro
Gloobbi Contributor
Based in Milan

Bookmark Gloobbi
Share/Save