At work with Jasmin Santanen, Paris

The future seems bright, albeit hectic, for the Finland-born, New York educated, and Paris-based fashion designer Jasmin Santanen. A burgeoning name in her own right, her recent successes have not gone unnoticed.

With an assortment of varied projects behind her, from her own line of clothing inspired by the Cold War to her collection of semi-precious jewelry for Rubens and gift-bags for Lancôme, 2010 promises even more expansion.

At the entrance of her studio in Le Marais stands a Chinese hexagram, a tribute to the philosophy of Feng Shui. Sitting across from Jasmin Santanen, one gets the feeling that this is a person who hasn’t allowed success to spoil her.

Her feet have stayed firmly on the ground, and on this particularly cold morning, her ever-present smile was as welcoming as it was warming.

Lined up along the bleached stone-cut walls was her latest collection for the summer of 2010. Inspired by the photography of Jean-Henri Lartigue during the 1920’s and 1930’s, they display an understated beauty.

Comprised of strong whites of silk and satin, Jasmin’s latest collection is a tribute to this classic femininity. The pieces are strong and slender, lending an aura of subtlety and elegance to the mature woman of today’s metropolises.

“The photographs of Lartigue capture movement and that split-second, that moment, of no control,” pushing pictures, videos, and books in front of me, she adds, “there is an honesty about it.” They reveal a natural ethereal beauty and the dynamic of movement, something she pushes through in her designs. It reflects a personal philosophy of hers, this letting go of artifice.

A similar philosophy inspired her latest winter collection. Her childhood in Finland, with its close proximity to Russia and her relatives in East Germany, peaked an interest in life behind the Iron Curtain.

“I had family in East Germany, who we would constantly send packages to,” she mentioned. The winter collection 2009/2010 is a celebration of how the people were able to express themselves in a suppressive atmosphere. It is in this split of suppression and expression that she looks to in life and work.

“The modern consumerist culture has left the persona underdeveloped, we must be able to fully process things,” she mused, “people can forget the value of what they have.” Even though she admits the paradox of the industry she works in, she says: “I was looking for a venue to touch people emotionally.”

This is the direction she believes, and hopes, fashion will take in the future. Yes, money talks, but fashion “must charm” in her words. Fashion must tell a story and give new perspectives and insights, which is why she initiates heavy research for each of her endeavors.

She predicts that fashion will soon adapt to a more diverse array of media. Already she uses video to exhibit her collections on the catwalk and as short films, see her website: www.jasminsantanen.com.

It was evident from the off-set the passion she has for life and work, in the profoundness in which she spoke, all hidden beneath a sunny disposition and natural charm that puts you at ease.

Currently, among other projects Jasmin is designing a series of uniforms for Russia’s Coffeemania chain of restaurants, in Moscow.

A woman of driving ambition, Jasmin Santanen has further plans on the horizon. Before going into men’s and children’s wear the women’s line will be further developed with new products, including accessories and a line of cosmetics.

The spirit of an artist truly does live within the lovely Jasmin Santanen.

Get ready to start hearing of her everywhere in 2010.

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by Henry Guyer
Photos by Arturo Oliva Pedroza

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