Prune, New York

New York City’s Lower East Side launched the careers of The Ramones, Cro Mags, and The Strokes. From its punk and hardcore roots, the neighborhood has evolved into an intelligent, artistic alternative to the Village or Brooklyn, maintaining a good deal of its gritty charm. L.E.S.’s (as it’s known to New Yorkers) renaissance has brought with it some great new restaurants, at the cream of which crop is Prune.

Prune’s bizarre moniker was head chef Gabrielle Hamilton’s childhood nickname. Though the culinary inspirations of one named after a shriveled fruit most often associated with the constipated is anyone’s guess, Prune’s menu is certainly inspiring. That there is contention over what Prune does best attests to the restaurant’s diversity and appeal.

There are those who swear by the brunch. As if the ten flavors of Bloody Marys weren’t enough, the menu proposes Dutch Style Pancakes, Sausages & Oysters, or the Monte Cristo triple-decker sandwich.

Prune’s cheeseburger is a divisive beast. While the brunch crowd steers clear of such substance, some have gone far enough to assert that the lunch-only patty of beef and lamb on a toasted English muffin is the only reason to eat at Prune.

Dinner crowds prefer the wine. A thorough, carefully considered collection, Prune’s wine choices are unique, incorporating vintages from South Africa, Argentina, Oregon, Chile, and Long Island. To compliment the wine, find roasted marrow bones, seared duck breast with dandelion greens, and grilled, marinated veal heart with mint-yogurt dressing.

Divisive though their selection may be, Prune has certainly gotten something right. This year, the restaurant celebrates its eleventh anniversary, no small feat in New York’s brutally competitive restaurant scene, where the dinners are more feared than the competition.

Prune: 54 East 1st Street, New York City

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by William Gish
Gloobbi Cuisine

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