Momofuku Cookbook

The cover of David Chang’s newly published Momofuku cookbook is a pattern of plywood. It seems an appropriate nod to the humble beginnings of a restaurant empire that started with a ramen joint, furnished almost entirely of plywood because it was the cheapest material around. From “going out of business slow” to one of the hottest tables in town, it has clearly been a remarkable journey for Chang.

Momofuku tells the story of Chang’s three restaurants through their recipes, from the pork buns at Noodle Bar, to the bo ssäm at Ssäm Bar, to the kimchi consommé at Ko.

The recipes definitely require some patience and skill; the sort of meals you slave over the stove all day to impress a new girlfriend/boyfriend or to surprise some close friends at a dinner party.

Truth be told, you’re probably better off getting those pork buns directly from the source, which Chang comes close to admitting it at points. However, for those up to the task, there are ingredients and techniques in this book that will keep you occupied in the kitchen for months to come.

Written with Peter Meehan, the former critic at the New York Times’ “$25 and Under” column, the language can get a little colorful at times, even in the directions, but that’s the fun of it. Think less Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking and more Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential minus the gratuitous drug use.

This is a surprisingly modest book written by a chef’s chef, complete with requisite shout-outs to former mentors and peers as well as features on Chang’s bacon and foie gras purveyors. You get the sense that Chang isn’t entirely comfortable with the spotlight and is eager to deflect praise on to the rest of his team. In today’s world of celebrity chefs, there’s something to be said for that.

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by Trafton Kenney
Gloobbi Cuisine

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