L’Avant Comptoir, Paris

The wait for a table at Yves Camdeborde’s neo-bistro Le Comptoir du Relais is among the longest in Paris - think months, not weeks. Magnanimous fellow that he is, Camdeborde recently opened an hors d’oeuvres (not tapas, mind you) bar called L’Avant Comptoir in the adjacent space.

Judging by the crowds of hungry Parisians, the gesture is clearly appreciated.

At the zinc bar, space is at a premium and seating is nonexistent. Not to worry though, with Paris’ real estate prices, people are bound to get creative, especially when it comes to enjoying plates of Camdeborde’s brother’s charcuterie, ham croquettes, and brandade de morue – all accompanied with a basket of communal bread and jars of cornichons and pickled mushrooms. The wines offered by the glass are also impressive.

As it gets more and more difficult to pretend it’s not winter, Camdeborde’s small plates of Basque and Béarnais comfort food give any diner the courage to face the colder weather. If you’re in near Odeon for the evening, L’Avant Comptoir is the ideal spot for a pre-dinner snack or drink. If you can deal with crowd at your back, you might just make a meal out of it.

L’Avant Comptoir, 9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006 Paris.

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by Trafton Kenney
Gloobbi Cuisine

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